Ha Giang is Vietnam’s northern-most province. The mysterious landscape along the Chinese border – a mythical combination of conical limestone peaks and deep, craterous valleys – is probably the most striking in the country. Once considered the last frontier for adventurous travel in Vietnam, Ha Giang gained an almost legendary status among independent travellers. In recent years, visitor numbers have increased dramatically, and road conditions between Ha Giang, Dong Van, Meo Vac and Bao Lac have improved, making access to this remote part of the country relatively easy. With mountain passes hanging onto cliff-faces high above roaring rivers, and back-roads threading through forests of limestone pinnacles, it’s ideal territory for a motorbike road trip. Food, accommodation and ATMs can now be found throughout the region. Now is the time to ride the Ha Giang Extreme North Loop: before mass tourism arrives (which it inevitably will, especially as more travellers choose Ha Giang as an alternative to Sapa, which has suffered terribly from over-development) but after the completion of necessary infrastructure.
ROAD TRIP DETAILS:
- Total Distance: 350km
- Duration: 3-8 days
- Route: Ha Giang-Tam Son-Yen Minh-Dong Van-Meo Vac-Du Gia-Bao Lac
- Road Conditions: very mountainous paved roads, some rough sections, light traffic
- Scenery: limestone karsts, deep gorges, remote borderlands, minority villages
ABOUT THIS ROUTE:
I’ve written this motorbike guide in 4 Sections. The main route (the blue line) is a loop: Ha Giang-Tam Son-Yen Minh-Dong Van-Meo Vac-Du Gia-Ha Giang. But I have also included several scenic side trips and alternative routes (the red lines). Another option is to forgo the loop by continuing southeast from Meo Vac down to Bao Lac in Cao Bang Province (see Section 4). The total distance of the main loop is 350km. You can complete the ride in 2 days, but the outstanding scenery is such that I recommend 2-5 days. Motorbikes can be rented in Ha Giang, but by far the best place is QT Motorbikes, who can also offer excellent route advice. Officially, foreign travellers still require a permit to visit this area. However, this is now just a formality, and travellers can simply buy the permit (200,000-300,000vnđ [$10]) when they arrive at their accommodation anywhere on the loop. Weather is best from March-May and September-October, when conditions are warm and clear, colours are bright, and rainfall is light. (It can get bitterly cold during the winter months.) Although most of the roads are now in pretty good condition, there are still some sections that are rough, under repairs, or suffer from landslides. In this guide, and on my map, I’ve included warnings of rough roads, as well as recommendations of places to stay and eat, and sights and excursions along the way.
